Eighth (8th) Edition Wine Club
January doesn't have any particular theme. Since so many people are taking it easy, at first I thought each bottle should really pack a strong punch. That if you were going to open 1 bottle instead of 2 at a dinner (as I imagine people drinking less in January might do), that said singular bottle should absolutely rip...maybe even make you want to open a second...Then I thought, January should lean classic. Something about opening a bottle, especially in the weather we've been having, should make you feel like you're in a ski lodge in the 1960s (I've never been to a ski lodge or even to a snowy mountain, nor was I anywhere near being born in the 1960s, so this is purely conceptual). So there's some of that in here too. THEN I thought, wines should just be easy. People want to sip and be comfortable. Share a bottle with friends, not have to think about it. And thus, January has no theme. Just good wines for a variety of times.
TWO
Le Nez de Goth (Olivier Boulin)
"Aligoth" 2018
Aligote (Fuller White)
Savoie, France
"...These purchases of grapes from illustrious winegrowers allow me to enjoy substantial moments in their company, apt to stimulate my own sensitivity. Basically, they are a constant questioning of my oenological work. Beyond the commercial dimension, it is about anchoring my activity in an approach that is not simply economic, but guided by uncompromising aesthetic principles.[...]
By working in a deliberately ancestral way, I propose not only to better highlight the potentially considerable effect of soils, subsoils and microclimates on the taste of wines but also to contribute, however modestly, to recomposing a now tattered human temporality. My grapes come from so-called organic or biodynamic agriculture; but, beyond the certifications that are often too lax, the approach of my viticulturists is lively, a particularly revitalizing concern for the soil and the plant." - Olivier Boulin (the winemaker)
"Aligoth" 2018
Aligote (Fuller White)
Savoie, France
"...These purchases of grapes from illustrious winegrowers allow me to enjoy substantial moments in their company, apt to stimulate my own sensitivity. Basically, they are a constant questioning of my oenological work. Beyond the commercial dimension, it is about anchoring my activity in an approach that is not simply economic, but guided by uncompromising aesthetic principles.[...]
By working in a deliberately ancestral way, I propose not only to better highlight the potentially considerable effect of soils, subsoils and microclimates on the taste of wines but also to contribute, however modestly, to recomposing a now tattered human temporality. My grapes come from so-called organic or biodynamic agriculture; but, beyond the certifications that are often too lax, the approach of my viticulturists is lively, a particularly revitalizing concern for the soil and the plant." - Olivier Boulin (the winemaker)
'Aligoth' is 100% Aligote coming from the final vintage of 120 year old vines in Gevry-Chambertin. The vines have since been ripped out due to their age and lack of productivity. Olivier's practices are fundamentally nomadic, both because he works purely as a negociant (someone who purchases grapes rather than grows them themself), and also because he at times makes wines in multiple places. These grapes were picked and also pressed at the estate he got them from, rather than his own "winery", which in actuality is his parent's garage. Already 5 years old, this wines shows lots of richness. A round, and giving wintry white with acid out the wazoo.
Yannick Pelletier
'L'engoulevent' 2018
45% Grenache, 35% Carignan, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault (Full Bodied Red)
Saint-Chinian, Languedoc, France
As of 2017, Yannick has chosen to declassify his wines from Saint-Chinian to Vin de France to further differentiate his practices and the quality of wine he produces from the generic AOC definition. He works almost entirely by hand for the sake of maintaining quality and thoroughness and to avoid compacting soils with a tractor.
"Pelletier's guiding principle in the winemaking process is to preserve the integrity of the grapes and wine: manual sorting of the grapes, use of gravity (yes!), and indigenous yeast… If the grapes are clean, pure, healthy and of good quality, he sees no reason to alter them with chemicals or oenology" - Louis Dressner (the importer)
A serious and full bodied red wine! Almost black in color. The grapes all go through a 15-20 day maceration in concrete tanks and are then aged 15 months in concrete vats. You can feel the texture of the cement on your tongue. This wine is for cozy weather and you'll be happy to snuggle up and sip on this. An Engoulevent is a type of bird that lives in Europe. It's name translates to "wind swallower".
FOUR
Stagiaire (Brent Mayeaux)
'Scales & Arpeggios' 2021
100% Sangiovese (Light/Chillable Red)
Treasure Island, California, USA
"It’s red wine! Honestly the 2020 blanc de noir from this high elevation Sangiovese vineyard in the Santa Cruz mountains was pretty darn good. Really darn good considering the circumstances(fires everywhere and me getting kicked out of my winery right before harvest). Its a testament to the quality of the site, but I’m happy to be able to release a red version again. This site is really on the edge of being warm enough to get the grapes ripe. Probably the coldest Sangio site in California. Maybe anywhere? All of my other fruit is in. It is lean and tense but with really amazingly beautiful aromatics. To temper that acidity it was all whole cluster and macerated for 4 weeks and then aged in neutral barrels for a year. Its italianosity comes through with structure and acid drive but has a really nice erm… grapey smell to it, with whole cluster spices, and a touch of carbonic lift. Slightly more serious than the 2019" -Brent Mayeaux (the winemaker)
Les Salicares (Vincent Lafage)
'Sentielle' 2021
100% Mourvedre (Rose/Light Red)
Canet-en-Roussillon, Roussillon, France
Vincent’s estate is fairly big, totaling about 20 hectares (almost 50 acres), but he only has about 2 hectares under vine. These two hectares are impeccably farmed according to organic and biodynamic principles, including the use of essential oil of sweet orange and herbal tea.
'Sentielle' 2021
100% Mourvedre (Rose/Light Red)
Canet-en-Roussillon, Roussillon, France
Vincent’s estate is fairly big, totaling about 20 hectares (almost 50 acres), but he only has about 2 hectares under vine. These two hectares are impeccably farmed according to organic and biodynamic principles, including the use of essential oil of sweet orange and herbal tea.
Nested between the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrénées, Les Salicaires benefits from ideal weather -- a fairly high altitude for the area with well drained soils that allow him to practice dry farming (meaning the vines are not irrigated, a practice that is increasingly important in drought stricken parts of the world like southern France and California).
'Sentinelle' is a new cuvee for Vincent. It is a 1 day maceration rose of Mourvedre in amphora. Mourvedre tends to make peppery and aromatic wines and this is no exception. Balancing the pepperiness and aromas you'll find macerated strawberry and cherry notes.